“For Steve Kistler and his longtime assistant, Mark Bixler, 2004 was a very small crop, even smaller than the modest production of 2003.  This is a reference point winery for New World Chardonnay, although their viticultural and winemaking techniques are decidedly Burgundian.  Interestingly, during the last year I have had an opportunity to taste some ten year old Kistler Chardonnays, and they have aged well in the bottle.  While a decade is not long when compared with some long-lived white Burgundies, by the standards of most California Chardonnays, which are generally best consumed during their first 1-3 years of life, the Kistler techniques of whole cluster pressing, slow malolactic fermentation, aging on their lees in high quality French oak, and bottling without fining or filtration appear to be producing longer lived Chardonnays.  Kistler has enjoyed a run of terrific vintages in the new century.  Moreover, they seem to be ratcheting up their performance in terms of the quality and complexity of their Pinot Noirs.”

2004 Cuvée Cathleen Chardonnay – 95-97

“A selection of the finest barrels, the 2004 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen has more of everything… honey, layers, body, depth, acidity, and precision. Year in and year out, it is a candidate for one of the finest Chardonnays made in California. Steve Kistler admits to moving away from over-extracting Pinot Noirs, doing less punching down, and being more careful about the usage of stems. Consequently, his Pinots were often impressively concentrated, but aged unevenly in the bottle because of the high tannins. That said, a 1997 Cuvee Catherine drunk on Thanksgiving was spectacular.”

2004 Vine Hill Vineyard Chardonnay – 94-96

“Hints of ripe pears, lemon butter, tangerines, and crushed rocks emerge from the 2004 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard, an elegant yet authoritatively flavored effort with a striking minerality, zesty acidity, and a spectacular finish.”

2004 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay – 94-96

“Always a show-stopper in terms of aromatics, the flowery 2004 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard offers hints of smoky hazelnuts, honeysuckle, orange blossoms, buttered apples, and white currants. With exuberant fruit, full body, terrific definition and precision, it should provide plenty of pleasure over the next 6-8 years.”

2004 Kistler Vineyard Chardonnay – 94-96

“[T]he fabulous 2004 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is reminiscent of a top vintage of Mt. Eden Chardonnay with its floral, honeysuckle, mineral, and buttery fruit notes. It also reveals notions of roasted nuts, orange blossoms, and lemon oil as well as stunning concentration and definition.”

2004 McCrea Vineyard Chardonnay – 92-94

“Its evolved light gold color is accompanied by a provocative nose of crushed rocks interwoven with orange liqueur, hazelnuts, and earth. Given its steely core of fruit, it is the most Chablisean of the 2004 Chardonnays. It should drink well for 5-7 years.”

2004 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay – 93-95

“The light gold-colored, full-bodied, intense 2004 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch displays evolved fruit notes in the nose (waxy peaches, honeysuckle, and wood). The showiest, most flamboyant of these 2004s, it requires consumption over the next 3-4 years.”

2004 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay – 91-93

“The 2004 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard possesses tangy, fresh acidity in addition to a sweet perfume of citrus oils, wet stones, and subtle hazelnuts. Tightly-knit, but full-bodied, ripe, poised, and refreshing.”

2004 Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay – 92-94

“The light gold-hued 2004 Chardonnay Hudson E-Block (from the famed E-Block made famous by Helen Turley) possesses lively acidity, gorgeous depth as well as richness, and a full-bodied, smoky, tropical fruit-filled (especially pineapple) personality. The wood component is well-integrated, and the alcohol content is 14.5%.”

“Steve Kistler admits to moving away from over-extracting Pinot Noirs, doing less punching down, and being more careful about the usage of stems.  Consequently, his Pinots were often impressively concentracted, but aged unevenly in the bottle because of the high tannins.  That said, a 1997 Cuvee Catherine drunk on Thanksgiving was spectacular.”

2004 Cuvée Elizabeth Pinot Noir – 96-98

“Bordering on perfection, the 2004 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands (from Kistler’s new vineyard planted on the Sonoma Coast) offers up sweet plum, forest floor, and violet scents along with a La Tache-like, ethereal, floral, and black raspberry-like character. This prodigious, deep ruby/purple-colored Pinot possesses fabulous concentration as well as a layered, multidimensional palate, wonderful fruit, sweet tannin, and good acidity… Interestingly, Steve Kistler planted this vineyard with the old Calera clone, which is rumored to be a suitcase clone pulled out of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti grand cru vineyards.”

2004 Cuvée Catherine Pinot Noir – 94-95

“The 2004 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Catherine Occidental Station boasts a glorious dark ruby/purple-tinged color as well as an extraordinary nose reminiscent of a Comte de Vogue Musigny Vieilles Vignes. Aromas of crushed rocks, violets, raspberries, sweet cherries, and a distinctive terroir character are present in this full-bodied effort. With oodles of vivacious fruit as well as wonderful freshness and palate penetration, this superb Pinot Noir should drink well for 10-12 years.”

2004 Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir – 92-94

“Violet, cranberry, cherry, pomegranate, and rose petal aromas jump from the glass of the tangy, medium-bodied 2004 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard.  Fresh and lively with good acidity and not the weight or intensity of the Cuvee Catherine, it is a beautifully fragrant, complex Pinot Noir to drink over the next decade.”